The joy of Christmas in Mangalore is a captivating experience that blends religious traditions with local customs, resulting in a truly enchanting celebration. In this coastal city of Karnataka, southwestern India, the festival is marked by an extravagant display of lights, carol singing, and beautifully decorated churches adorned with vibrant flowers and flickering candles. The rich culture and deep-rooted Christian heritage are reflected in the midnight mass held at St. Aloysius Chapel, where mesmerizing stained glass windows depict biblical scenes. Furthermore, the resounding harmonies of traditional Konkani carols fill the air as families gather around their beautifully decorated Christmas trees to exchange gifts and feast on delectable dishes like plum cakes, nevries (sweet pastries) and sorpotel (spicy pork stew). The genuine warmth and radiant spirit of Mangalorean’s during this festive season make it a truly delightful experience for both locals and visitors alike.
When it comes to Christmas celebrations in India, one dessert takes center stage – the plum cake. This delectable treat has a rich history dating back to the time of British colonial rule and has become an integral part of Indian culture. Despite its name, plum cake rarely contains actual plums. Instead, it is made with a variety of dried fruits, nuts, spices, and sometimes even local ingredients. In this article, we will explore the evolution of plum cake in India, its unique variations across different regions, and the fascinating stories behind its creation.
During the British colonial era, plum cake was introduced to India as a festive treat enjoyed by the British expatriates. The cake was traditionally made with plums, which were abundant in Britain during Christmas time. However, due to the unavailability of plums in India, local bakers began substituting them with dried fruits like raisins, currants, and dates.
Over time, as Indian bakers experimented with different ingredients and flavors, the traditional plum cake underwent a transformation. They started incorporating local spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg to infuse it with an Indian twist. These aromatic spices not only added depth of flavor but also complemented the sweetness of the dried fruits. Furthermore, regional variations emerged across India as different states put their own spin on plum cake. In Kerala, for example, cashew nuts and coconut were added to enhance its richness and texture.
The Origins of Plum Cake
The origins of plum cake can be traced back to medieval England, where the weeks leading up to Christmas were a time of self-denial and fasting. This period, known as Advent, prepared the body for the upcoming feasts and indulgences of the Christmas season. During this time, a special porridge-like dish was cooked and eaten on Christmas Eve. This porridge consisted of oats, dried fruits, spices, honey, and sometimes even meat. Over the centuries, this porridge evolved into what we now know as plum cake.
In the 16th century, the porridge began to undergo changes. Oats were replaced with flour, and butter and eggs were added to the mixture. The batter was then cooked in a muslin cloth in a pot of boiling water or baked in ovens in wealthier households. The resulting cake, often served upside down with a sprig of holly as garnish, became known as plum pudding or plum cake. The name “plum” is believed to have originated from the use of raisins or prunes (dried plums) in the recipe.
The Introduction of Plum Cake in India
The tradition of Christmas cake in India started in 1883 when a British planter in Thalassery, Kerala, asked a local baker named Mambally Bapu to recreate the rich plum cake he had received from England. Bapu decided to incorporate local ingredients into the cake, using locally brewed liquor made from cashew apples and a banana variety called “kadalipazham” instead of European brandy. This unique twist gave the cake a distinct Indian flavor.
The success of Bapu’s creation led to the popularity of Christmas cake in India. Today, every city has its own iconic bakeries known for their Christmas cakes. In Kolkata, Nahoum & Sons is renowned for its delicious plum cakes, while Albert Bakery in Bengaluru is a favorite among locals. The tradition of baking and sharing plum cake during the Christmas season has become deeply rooted in Indian culture.
While the essence of plum cake remains the same across India, each region has its own unique twist on the recipe. The culinary traditions of different regions influence the ingredients and baking process, resulting in delightful variations of plum cake.
Mangalore Plum cake
Plum cake holds a significant place during Christmas festivities in Mangalore, known for its rich cultural traditions. This delectable delicacy is a quintessential part of the local cuisine during the holiday season. Made with a blend of dried fruits such as raisins, candied citrus peels, and currants, soaked in rum or brandy to enhance its flavor and preserve it over time, plum cake embodies the essence of Christmas. The batter is meticulously prepared by incorporating an array of ingredients like all-purpose flour, butter, eggs, sugar, baking powder, and spices such
as cinnamon and nutmeg. The mixture is then poured into baking pans and slowly baked to perfection. Served sliced into moist and flavorsome pieces adorned with crunchy nuts on top, this warm treat brings joy and nostalgia to both locals and visitors alike. Whether enjoyed with a cup of tea or shared among loved ones at festive gatherings, plum cake has become an enduring tradition synonymous with Christmas celebrations in Mangalore.
Kerala Plum Cake
In Kerala, plum cake holds a special place in Christmas celebrations. The cake is made with a mix of dried fruits, nuts, and spices, which are soaked in rum for weeks to infuse the flavors. Kerala plum cake is often made with butter or ghee, giving it a rich and moist texture. It is also known for its generous use of spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves, which add warmth and depth to the cake.
Goan Bebinca Plum Cake
In Goa, the traditional plum cake takes on a distinct Goan twist. Instead of using regular flour, Goan plum cake is often made with a combination of coconut milk, rice flour, desiccated coconut, semolina, and ghee. This gives the cake a unique texture and flavor profile. The use of local ingredients reflects the vibrant culinary heritage of Goa.
Regional Variations
Plum cake recipes vary across the country. These regional variations in plum cake recipes reflect the diverse culinary traditions and cultural influences found across the country. India’s rich agricultural landscape provides an abundance of fruits, each unique to different regions. By incorporating local fruits like mangoes or pineapples into plum cakes, people not only infuse their desserts with a distinct flavor but also celebrate the bountiful produce of their land. Furthermore, the integration of traditional Indian sweets such as petha or murabba into plum cake recipes adds another layer of complexity and richness. These sweets are often made from ingredients like pumpkin or various fruits that are cooked in sugar syrup until they become candied delights. Incorporating them into plum cakes not only enhances the taste but also pays homage to age-old Indian confectionery practices. The beauty of these diverse recipes lies in their ability to bring families together through shared experiences and cherished memories. Many households have their own secret recipes that have been passed down through generations, creating a sense of continuity and preserving family traditions.
Baking Challenges and Innovations
Baking plum cake in India hasn’t always been an easy task. In the early days, the availability of quality flour and yeast posed challenges for bakers. Yeast was traditionally used as a leavening agent, but it’s temperamental nature made consistent baking difficult. To overcome this, some bakers replaced yeast with locally brewed liquor or used egg whites for aeration. Moreover, the lack of proper ovens also posed a challenge. Many households had to resort to
improvised baking contraptions, such as using hot sand and live charcoal or sending pre-mixed batter to local bakers with wood-fired ovens. The determination and resourcefulness of Indian bakers resulted in unique methods and flavors that are now cherished traditions.
The Joy of Christmas Cake
The preparation of plum cake in India is a labor of love. Weeks before Christmas, families begin soaking dried fruits and nuts in rum or other alcoholic beverages to infuse them with rich flavors. The aroma of the cake baking in the oven fills the house, creating a festive atmosphere. The cake is often shared with family, friends, and neighbors as a symbol of joy, love, and togetherness during the Christmas season. The plum cake has become an integral part of Christmas celebrations in India, with each region adding its own unique twist to the recipe. From Mangalore’s rum soaked plum cakes to Kerala’s spice-infused plum cakes, the variations showcase the diversity and creativity of Indian cuisine. Baking challenges have been overcome through innovative techniques, ensuring that families
across the country can enjoy this delectable treat during the festive season. So, this Christmas, savor a slice of plum cake and experience the rich flavors and traditions that make it truly special in India
